Dudwood

Well, it's Thu. Aug. 8th, and it's been well over a week since the last post. Lack of internet access, too much fun, and almost 700 miles on the road a day conspired to keep us dark. Much catching up to do -- lots of good pictures. Here goes Deadwood.

As stated on the audiopost, it was quite hot as we pulled in around noon. Luckily we happened onto the visitor center -- one of the few things worth seeing in the town. About 8 displays to read which provided an excellent overview of Deadwood's colorful history. We then walked across the street to the excellent Adam's Museum and House - item #2 of the three things worth seeing in Deadwood. Lots of very cool turn of the century technology, law enforcement paraphernalia, a stuffed two-headed calf, clothing -- all with excellent explanations.

We then ambled down the street to the the Number 10 Saloon, named for the original which was named for the gold claim number - the proprietor figured (correctly) as did Al Swearengen of the Gem Saloon fame, that there was a lot more money in booze and women than relying on the vagaries of panning for gold. Three times a day, there is a re-enactment of the killing of Wild Bill Hickock by Jack McCall. The guy playing Hickock was almost as good as Carradine. The only other genuine actor was the guy playing McCall. Wild Bill recruited from the scores of tourists packing the saloon and casino the other four key participants in the drama -- three other card players the day Wild Bill met his fate, and the bartender. The non-SAG members improvised beautifully with just a few minutes of coaching from Bill offstage.

Wild Bill enjoying a friendly game of cards at the #10

The slimy Jack McCall shoots Wild Bill in the head from behindThe murdered Hickcock, holding the famed "Dead Man's Hand"

As the legend goes, Wild Bill, who was always cognizant of the fact that people were potentially gunning for him, showed up to the game last. He insisted that he get a chair so that he could keep his back to the wall. On this particular occasion the player refused to relinquish his chair and so Bill was left vulnerable...and ultimately paid the price.

Later that night the town recreated the capture and trial of Jack McCall. Unbelievably bad. The emphasis was on creating 80 minutes of "family" entertainment on the level of a WB sitcom rather than anything approaching historical accuracy. Genna and I escaped as soon as we could.

Earlier in the evening, we did go to the Mt. Moriah cemetery to see the graves of Wild Bill and Calamity Jane. Jane apparently claimed to have been a friend and/or lover of Bill's -- his version, the accepted one, is that they merely road into Deadwood together on the stage coach. Jane stuck to her story long after Bill's death and got her wish to be buried next to him.

Thoughtful tokens left behind for Bill. I know he would have loved the rocks and the hairband.

Deadwood from the vantage of Mt. Moriah cemetery. The town got its name because it lay at the bottom of two steep inclines where dead timber rolled down to the ravine -- originally getting the name Deadwood Gulch.

What brought Deadwood back to life after numerous reincarnations from floods, fires, the gold and then other minerals running out, was legalized gambling in the late 90's. Genna noted that prostitution wasn't made ILLEGAL in Deadwood until 1980. Unfortunately, while giving the town an economic shot in the arm and giving rise to the largest historical preservation project in the US, the continuous presence of slot machines created an obnoxious homogeneous aesthetic to the town. Genna noted that every establishment SOUNDED the same as well as looking the same. To be fair in our review, we skipped the two Kevin Costner attractions: his four-star restaurant Jake's and his buffalo exhibit Tatanka which is supposed to be good. We wuz just too tuckered as we crashed into our motel for the night.

The Penny Motel